Standing Stout: Bravely Facing Their Destiny |
Following
form from the last taste-off, each beer was organised into a cluster before
getting wrapped in paper and assigned a number. The first was the mega-producers: SAB,
Guinness, Youngs and Marston. Figuring
that this would set a general standard for the night before we moved on. The next group we termed
the ‘S-Class,’ or standard, straight up stouts, a category including the
highest proportion of South African micros. After a scheduled dinner break of pizza and prawns–the latter bought fresh the
day before from Cyrildene–we broke ranks with a group of ‘outliers’ including porters and other stout brothers or cousins. This
being the new South Africa and all, we didn’t feel it right to exclude just because they didn't pass a stout purity test. Our
pudding was a couple of American imperials.
Things
started a bit slower than expected.
Mark, Helen and Tor (who until that night hadn't known beer was made with barley) arrived first. No sooner were they in the door than
Helen was on the phone busting a colleague from a
holding cell at OR Tambo International. While that drama unfolded, Colin the itinerant playwright
walked in newly relieved of his phone, SatNav, and a fistful of Rand. Mark, who spends his days researching township
crime and vigilantism, lost interest in the story when he heard it happened downtown, but the
rest of us pressed him for details while Helen lit up the switchboard assaulting an ever intransigent Department of Home Affairs. Remarkably, she
ultimately prevailed and the dude was released. Colin, on the other hand, ran back to Dublin with only
his story to tell.
After finally settling down, we confronted the momentous task ahead: thirteen beers on a weeknight and it was
already well past eight. Not to be
dissuaded, we forged ahead. Alas, in this
smack-down, South Africa was flattened.
As you’ll read below, there were no Mzansi standouts although South
Africa’s champions were by no means the worst on offer. Is this surprising? Thick heavy
beers in the tropical sun? For a drinking public accustomed to light lagers? That said, there’s nothing as satisfying like a hearty beer
on a cold evening. For those without under floor heating, there are a couple of locals
worth drinking. However, if you want the real deal, you’re still better off going with the exotics .
Round One: the Macros
Castle
Milk Stout (RSA): We unwittingly started the evening off with this true South
African stalwart. Hero to the working man, we found the distinctive, lactose aided
stout had a relatively flat flavour. As one might expect, we found it slightly
sweet, but with a bit of not altogether pleasant sourness at the end. With its light carbonation, someone at the
table described it as slightly thin (although you wouldn’t be if you drank too
many of these). Others identified an almost
metallic scent on the nose. This evolved into the taste of burnt
or stale coffee after a few swigs. Although
we all agreed it was a pretty standard stout, no one was dying for a refill. Nonetheless, it came in a respectable second (of four) in the
macro-category.
Second on
the agenda was the global standard bearer: Guinness (Ireland/RSA?). This one, brewed in
Cape Town S.A., went unrecognised by our Irish guest, although he admitted he
hadn’t drank his native son in years. The rest of us found it slightly more carbonated than the Castle with a
little bit of creaminess countered by a higher level of carbonation. The first reactions related to being ‘fruity
up front.” That quickly faded with the fruit giving way to what one might sprouting find beneath the trees. “Yes, I’ll take fungal,” shouted the Alaskan. Indeed, there was something musty and, well,
fungal in the taste albeit not in an unpleasant way. With its heightened bitterness and
fruit-fungal flavours, we agreed it had more character and was just that more, ‘stouty.’ After the big reveal, we
were surprised to find it was a Guinness, and a little surprised that the Irish flagship is
quite so popular.
Young’s
Double Chocolate (UK): The
beer poured almost jet black in the glass with a thin, creamy head – like you
might find on a nicely shot espresso. Given the name, it should come as little surprise that the taste was
sweet and chocolately, a bit like one of those chocolate pinotages in vogue these days. After we started thinking wine, someone mentioned
tastes of black cherry. Fruit, yes. But the sweetness was countered by a pleasant bitterness
on the back side which lets you know there’s some hops in there. Although it wasn’t on the after-dinner menu,
it could easily pass as a beer to go with pudding. Or, better yet, as desert
all its own. And like most deserts, this one would be good to share – its
richness might be overbearing for a singleton. Although it was thinly textured and had poor lacing, we liked the
carbonation, we enjoyed the lingering chocolate taste in our mouth and elected
it our clear category winner.
Marston’s
Oyster Stout (UK) drew last on this dance card in more ways than one. It poured out with the strongest head of the
groups with a slightly red tint in the beer. A bit of chocolate on the nose,
but far fainter than the one before. Beneath
that chocolate was a bit of barley scent, a hint of grape nuts past. Once it
was in the mouth, it came across as almost watery on the tongue. The light chocolate
tasted complemented with a bit of nothing: almost like a ‘stout lite’, diet
beer, or watered down cola. In the end,
we agreed it looked like stout, poured like a stout but sure didn’t taste like
a stout. While it might pass as a kind
of black IPA, it lacks the flavour profile. The clear loser.
Mzansi vs. Wilford Brimley |
Round Two: S-Class (Standard Stouts)
Having downed
the big boys, we moved to the group including the highest proportion of
South African competitors. It's also worth noting that the Notties draught snuck into this category due to a clerical error. That said, it wouldn't have managed any better amidst the outliers where it belonged. Despite our
best efforts to stack the deck, the one alien in the group managed to claim to
the crown. Read why:
Mitchell's Raven Stout (RSA): Brewed in Knysna by one
of South Africa’s best-established craft brewers, this one poured out with a
fruity, almost herbal and flowery scent that percolated through a big, foamy
head. On the tongue the first thing we noticed was the carbonation behind that
head. Given the big smell, we were all a
little surprised by just how thin the beer was on the tongue. Still, we found
the fruit and an almost black currant taste: berry but with a bitter kick.
Tasty, but also just a bit too watery with the pleasant berryness
eventually faded to something pretty dry leaving you with a final, almost sour
or overly bitter taste. The beer was fine, but no one would go out
of their way to drink the thing. Sure, it had more complex and nuanced flavours
than the mass action, but not yet did we find satisfaction. Despite its thrown togetherness, it
came in second of the four.
Nottingham Road Brewing Pickled Pig Porter (RSA) came
up next from the crowded coolerbox. The only beer of the night to pour from a can, it
showed up with an extremely creamy head and firm bubbles. Someone smelled roses in the glass. Another
less generously scented toothpaste. I first thought the thing hinted at anti-septic
but was then convinced to switch my assessment to ‘metal’. Someone added that it was more of a bubble-gum
or cough syrup. Before long we were
divided. One side of the table couldn’t finish their glasses while Tor, the Brooklynite,
was so into it the florally toothpasty taste he filled his glass with the
others’ leavings. He later admitted growing up on malt liquor. Looking on with disgust, the Irishman elegantly described the
aftertaste as beer poured through an ashtray. If you’re after a 4 AM
nightclub kind of beer, fill your glass. The rest of us (apart from Tor)
thought this was by far the worst of the crowd.
Darkhorse One Oatmeal Stout (USA): Back out of the bottle, this one poured with almost no head but released
some find bubbles when swirled. Caramel,
chocolate and roasted malt with a bit of dark fruit and coffee. Generally
had a good mouth feel – no wateriness like the others. Instead it was creamy
and consistent. This, we thought, is
what Guinness was supposed to taste and feel like. South African Stephen didn’t
jive with the bitterness and burnt taste so much, but still thought it better
than the previous two. Overall,
consensus was this was this was what a stout should taste like. A clear winner for the Americans. They may not
have won much in Sochi, but this is theirs. When it came to choosing our
overall winner for the night, this was right up there. If Mark wasn’t such a Goose Island
chauvinist, it would have prevailed.
Press
Club Stout, Standeaven Brewery (RSA): The
final of the four took us back to South Africa.
This came to the glass super-duper foamy, almost like someone had
dropped in some soap. After spilling all
over the table, we took the glasses outside and finished pouring. When finally got past the foam, we were
confronted with a sour, metal taste complemented by and a slight toastiness on
the nose that carried through to the taste. Bitterness was okay, but it was generally flat and boring and Hardly worth the sticky mess. No one needed a
second sip but it was hardly inoffensive. Third place for the press club.
Outliers
Here we
pushed to the edge of the stout family with a few beers that look like a stout
from outside the bottle but make no claims to being one.
Robinson Old Tom with Chocolate (UK): Out of its dark packaging, we quickly realised that this was not a stout at all, but really a dark ale. The colour was ambery and the smell woody with some vanilla; far more fragrant than what we’ve been drinking up till now. As soon as it hit the tongue, someone proclaimed it tasted like ‘a bag of Halloween candy.’ We agreed the taste profile was basically 'candy corn.’ The Kenyan was convinced that they’d added something to corrupt the brew. No one could figure how you'd get an orangey corn syrup flavour without additions. To its credit, it had a nice light head and good carbonated. Still, someone feared they’d get a cavity if they kept drinking, probably not what most are not looking for. “I quite like it” says Steven, which kind of summed up the feeling. Oddly, probably the best of the bunch, but not a clear winner.
Black Mist and Candy Corn |
Robinson Old Tom with Chocolate (UK): Out of its dark packaging, we quickly realised that this was not a stout at all, but really a dark ale. The colour was ambery and the smell woody with some vanilla; far more fragrant than what we’ve been drinking up till now. As soon as it hit the tongue, someone proclaimed it tasted like ‘a bag of Halloween candy.’ We agreed the taste profile was basically 'candy corn.’ The Kenyan was convinced that they’d added something to corrupt the brew. No one could figure how you'd get an orangey corn syrup flavour without additions. To its credit, it had a nice light head and good carbonated. Still, someone feared they’d get a cavity if they kept drinking, probably not what most are not looking for. “I quite like it” says Steven, which kind of summed up the feeling. Oddly, probably the best of the bunch, but not a clear winner.
Robinson
Old Tom ‘The Original' (UK): Back to
a more stout like visual profile this one poured out with a small head and
light carbonation. Even with the nose in the glass, there was almost no scent.
Someone thought they caught a whiff of swimming pool. Another one – the doctor
– thought it tasted like Actifed while the Alaskan dismissed it as 'Steel Reserve' with chocolate. Vic, another New Yorker, tasted drain cleaner. The remainder settled on cough syrup. Riding the wave, a corner of the table wasn’t convinced that cough syrup was so bad.
I mean, teens get drunk off it all the time, right? The Irishman liked it
even if it had a bit too much alcohol for the taste (it is 8.5%). By the end, only one at the table thought he
might buy it again even if the bottle claims it was the ‘best ale in the world.’
Darling Brew Black Mist (RSA): The only South African in this crowd, this one showed up darker
than the rest, but without much else. Like many of the other South Africans,
this offered up a ‘metal’ taste, probably a result of limited local malts. Someone quickly dismissed the beer as
‘pointless’. Colin offered that it
tasted like sparkling water mixed with a bit of leftovers from before A few people thought that wasn’t so bad and
could be a better session beer, although they admitted that there were far
options out there that tasted better and would be slower to bloat your belly. Mark agreed you could drink it all night but feared
lead poisoning. It came in second place: middling but certainly drinkable.
Imperials
With but two, very different contenders, we had no clear winner. Basically, it came down to taste and it split
the table down the middle. Well, not
really. Mark and I stuck with bourbon
county while the Lagunitas rounded up the rest.
Lagunitas
Imperial Stout (USA): This one was all dark chocolate and hops countered with
light bubbles. Like many Lagunitas beers, this one was sweet; almost syrupy on
the tongue in fact. Mark felt there was
a beef jerky taste. Michael, who’d lived in South Africa a bit longer agreed on
meat but better described it as ‘biltongy.’ Whatever the taste, it coats your
tongue with the meaty maltiness. It lets you know it’s around before passing
through. Appropriate for the end of a long night, it was almost like drinking a
post-meal (if meaty) brandy. Once you got past the biltong, there certainly
were rich fruity tastes that almost shrouded the 9% alcohol. Should probably be drank at cellar
temperature rather than chilled. Generally delicious.
Goose
Island Bourbon County (USA): The most
distinctive of the night, this bourbon barrel aged beer pours like oil into the
glass. Helen thought you could probably drive your car on this. Judging from
the taste, there is certainly enough alcohol in this to fire up a science class
full of Bunsen burners (15%). Colin thought it smelled like blood, but that
might just be his earlier trauma coming back to haunt him. Others sense it had a Port like taste,
probably the result of its barrel aging.
Tor argued that this was not beer at all, but was kind of like a desert
wine in a Halloween costume. “This taste
like mixing your drinks,” Colin said, “a glass of wine and Guinness all at
once. that’s just wrong”. Helen felt it
was like toffee with chocolate in the middle.
Whatever you say, those small bubbles on the tongue and the strong taste
were something you could love or hate. I loved it. On a cold winter’s night,
there would be nothing like it.
Wish I was there to contribute my perspective on pickled pig now that they have graduated from a plastic sdoda bottle to an [aloooo-min-eeee-um] can. (Waddup, Mark?)
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